Thursday, February 18, 2010

Poulet au vin jaune et aux morilles

Photo Courtesy of Le Placard D'Elle

Chances are, if you are reading OWOS, then you can either translate, or posit a guess as to what the title means. Simply put, the magic that happens when you slowly cook a chicken with cream, a bottle of sous voile Jura white wine (or, sherry) and morel mushrooms is a marvel of regional French culinary experience.

Care to double down and drink some appropriate whites with your traditional Jura dish? Sounds terrific, in fact I would highly recommend you do just that. In my case a few weeks ago, the selections were 2000 Houillon/Overnoy Savagnin and 2000 Houillon/Overnoy Savagnin. Same vintage, same grapes, one sous voile (literally, "underneath a veil" which is in fact a white-ish layer of tufty yeast similar to flor in sherry country). The "voile" protects the wine from oxidation while adding a nutty oxidative note. It's confusing, I know. That having been said, the sous voile version actually tasted even brighter, more energetic, more alive and crackling with Savagnin acid goodness than its non oxidatively made counterpart.

If all this makes little sense, then I'm right there with you. To summarize: Jura style chicken with vin jaune and morels, delicious. Jura style chicken with vin jaune and morels served with top notch savagnin, religious. This will take you to church, synagogue, mosque and Buddhist temple, simultaneously.

Thank you, Guilhaume and Claire for your hospitality.


David McDuff said...

So, did G&C actually cook theirs with Vin Jaune?

Joe Manekin said...

Yes, a bottle of 2001 Domaine de la Tournelle Vin Jaune