Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Typicité in Cour-Cheverny; another Tessier CC experience


How would you describe Romorantin? The ancient grape variety which composes the Cour-Cheverny appellation, Romorantin is definitely a varietal near and dear to the heart of the Loire valley wine lover.

Somehow I've yet to experience a bottle made by the master of Romorantin, Francois Cazin, though I do have a few bottles of '02 Cuvee Renaissance (a demi-sec which includes some botrytised grapes) currently en route from New York City. The only romo I know-know would be that of Philippe Tessier. I am drinking another bottle of his 2004, and I would describe it as intensely pithy and citric. Bitter oranges and lots of pith. But also distinctly mineral and showing this weird root vegetable aspect towards the finish that his Cheverny Rouge also shows.

I know it sounds like I'm luke-warm towards the wine, but I do rather enjoy it. It makes me think about what I'm drinking, and I've probably drunk this wine half a dozen times in the past year.

Addendum

My girlfriend just asked me if any of my co-workers would ever describe a wine as 'fun.' I said that yes, I occasionally have used such a vague, promissory, lame descriptor as 'fun.' Seeking something more inventive and descriptive to redeem myself, I offered that the wine I was currently drinking (i.e. the 04 Tessier Cour-Cheverny) was a real mind fuck of a wine. To which she replied, "No, it's a skull fucking wine!"

That'll work for me. You should try it sometime - the Cour-Cheverny, that is.

3 comments:

Lyle Fass said...

Do NOT forget Cazin's Cheverny. A wine I was drinking al summer. The '07 and '08 are excellent. The CC VM '02 is great as is the '04, the '05 less so.

David McDuff said...

And here I thought you were promoting the fucking of skulls.

Tessier's wines are nothing if not compelling. When they're on, they can be great. A bottle of his C-C (I can't even remember the vintage) that I brought back from a trip to France in '04 was absolutely rocking. Even when they're wacky, as with the '05 C-C I wrote-up a while back, they're still provocative -- in a skullfuckinglyfun kind of way.

Joe Manekin said...

Thanks, Lyle. Will check Cazin's Cheverny out.

David - reviewing your writeup on the 05 right now....