Friday, May 29, 2009
Bordeaux can be interesting. Really, it can.
There are many out there who still consider Bordeaux to be the king of wines. The most serious, the most age-worthy and elegant. I would say that most people who say these things, though, are over 50. They might also drive a large luxury sedan, play golf regularly, and, I don't know, think that rock music peaked in 1969. In my generation, we don't drink much Bordeaux. Usually the cheap stuff is boring, and the classed growths are too expensive. I won't even get into the cellar trickery and toasty oak elevage which often obscures terroir, is mistaken as terroir and wipes away any reminder that the wine is actually made from GRAPES.
That having been said, there is good, interesting, food friendly Bordeaux out there. It can be tricky to locate, but it does exist. Usually it costs $15-$25. It may be a second label of a Chateau whose style you like but can't afford on an everyday basis. Or it may be a well regarded, traditional Haut- Medoc. And occasionally, I do run into that rare Bordeaux for $12.99 or so that really overdelivers. Here are a few examples of Bordeaux that, if you've been turned off by the region lately, or prefer firmer, more traditional wines, you might actually like.
2005 Chateau Lanessan Haut-Medoc
Always like this guy. The '96 is also worth seeking out. This '05 shows the red fruit, slight herbaceous cab family aromas and flavors, and taut structure that, in my mind anywyay, young Bordeaux should show. This should age well for well over a decade.
2005 Chateau Laubarit 'Vieilles Vignes' Bordeaux
Biodynamic Bordeaux! We all know that biodynamic does not necessarily mean it tastes natural, but in this case the wine does. Sure, it's a bit ripe, but the wine does not get too fruity or heavy in the mouth. No problems aging this wine 5 years, during which time it will undoubtedly improve.
2004 Salle de Poujeaux Moulis-en-Medoc
Poujeaux is based in Moulis-en-Medoc, almost due west of Margaux, placing it southwest of the five famous communes of the Medoc. Competitor Chasse-Spleen is also located in Moulis. These are both Bordeaux 'insider' wines. Traditional and tightly structured, they do not get heavily pointed, gushing press from the 100pt scale crowd, but they are terrific wines for aging. So, it follows that Poujeaux's second label is also well made, and half the price of the grand vin. You won't be able to drink it in 30 years, but aging another 5 is not outside the realm of possibility. Darker fruits on this wine, with a core of minerality, some licorice rope, and a dense structure.
A famous colleague of mine signs off his Bordeaux columns 'Tous jours Bordeaux." While I won't go that far, let's try it this way:
De temps en temps, Bordeaux.