Wednesday, February 6, 2008
Straight Class: Jo Landron Vin Mousseux
Upon spotting a double facing of Jo Landron sparkling wine in the store last week, I was truly excited. Landron's muscadets (bottled under the Domaine de la Louvetrie label) are stellar, and I did not know that we would be getting in a bit of Jo's vin mousseux as well. Tonight I tried said bottle of sparkling wine from Muscadet, and it was not only good, but really fucking good.
Now I can appreciate sparklers from all over, whether it is a crisp cremant de Loire, an incomparable Schloss Gobelsburg sekt, or a classy cava like Raventos i Blanc. That being said, I appreciate these wines for what they are, without trying to make any comparison to Champagne (Gobelsburg, now that I think of it, is very champagne like as well). Jo's sparkling wine brings to mind good, entry level NV champagne. The intense golden yellow color, as well as the broad, creamy palate and soft mousse, suggests that this might be fruit from '00, and '01, though I really can not make this claim with any certainty. What is certain is the combination of chalky minerality, acidity and intense flavors that bring real deal champagne to mind. Not most grand marques, mind you, but solid entry level non-vintage grower champagne. Now that I've built this wine up, I don't believe that anyone else carries it, though there is a certain store in Manhattan who might be able bring some in from Jo himself....