Leavin' New York City Blues

Whenever I go to New York, usually about 3 times a year, I inevitably find it depressing to leave. There is no other city that even approaches New York's (and New Yorkers') energy, style, and pure urban sense of joie de vivre. Also, when I go to New York it is to visit people who I care lot about, and whom I do not see nearly often enough. A few nights of catching up is never enough.

So I boarded the Amtrak Northeast Regional heading towards Baltimore, ate my last New York Bagel and tried to ignore the moisture welling up in my eyes. I read a copy of Paste Magazine and thought that I would listen to The Arcade Fire to cheer myself up....

Once in Baltimore, with a few hours to spare before dinner and Yom Kippur services, I drove to pick up a few things from the pharmacy and listened to a bit of the new Animal Collective album Strawberry Jam on the way there. A fitting choice as the band shares my suburban Baltimore upbringing. The first jam, Peacebone, with its arppegiating, repetitive melody, was bouncy, and just a little grating. Track 2 was better. By the third song, which starts out all rock and then steadies itself into a more mellow house music type of groove, I was really enjoying the record. AC's latest effort is not striking me as an immediate favorite like 'Feels,' but it does not come across as a tough listen in the way that 'Here Comes the Indian' was.

An easy fast to all the fasters out there.

Peace.

Home cooked food and Geek wines in NYC

I had some good food and fun wines with some folks last night at Chez Desor in the east village. Before dinner there was some epoisse and a tasty French blue cow's milk cheese (I forget which one). Didn't have any wine with the blue cheese (always a tricky thing unless you're drinking Auslese. Here were some of the wines (listed from favorite to least favorite):

2002 Mason Pierre Overnoy Poulsard - This wine was bottled by someone else, Emmanuel Houillon, which was noted prominently on the wine label - never seen that before. It was really cool wine though. Very light ruby color, with lots of animal and spicy notes on the nose and palate. It was delicious with Epoisse and then with a pork tenderloin. It opened up and revealed some more berry fruit over the course of a couple hours, though still retained a Mourvedre/Grenache type savor on the finish, which I found interesting. Very fun wine. Thank you, Chambers Street Wines, for the enthusiastic rec here.

1989 Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Reserva Blanco - I was very, very excited to taste this. It was a pretty, limpid yellow-golden color. Very tight at first, though it was open enough on the nose, with some soft citrus and nutty scents. Aromas became more intense and quince-like with some air. On the palate, the wine was very subtle, and soft, with some whispering citrus and classic american oak spice. With the epoisse the finish became very nutty, a keen observation from my buddy Chris. Delicious wine, but I'd really like to drink it in another five years.

1999 Guelbenzu Lautus - Guelbenzu is a winery in Navarra who makes some ok wine. They have never been my favorites. This wine is a Spanish style Bdx blend (Tempranillo, Cab, Merlot and a bit of Garnacha). It had some pleasant leafy and green notes from the Cab and Merlot components. Nothing spectacular here, but if you're into Bordeaux and if you see this wine for $40 or less (more than that would be pricey, methinks) then it might be worth a try.

2006 Fuente del Conde Rosado - Tempranillo Rose from Cigales. They did a good job of it this year. Bigger, richer, fruitier style of rose for you tavel fans. But it was still crisp and fresh enough to be a rose that I enjoyed drinking, even if the style lends it a bit of an anonymous character.

1998 Flora Springs Trilogy - Not to hate on CA meritage, but this Napa juice, even with bottle age, was just ok. It's not my thing, but it was well enough made to be tasty to fans of Napa Cab, I think.

2004 Dominio de Tares Bembibre - A real oak bomb. New French oak. It was very tough to taste the Mencia goodness through all this oak. The wine did not improve over the course of an hour and a half or so. I'd be curious to re-visit this wine in three years.

Afterwards I had a bit of single malt. Not a good way to fnish the evening, at least in terms of how I felt for part of the day today. Whether or not you are a single malt person, I would advise against drinking it after an evening of wine drinking.

The best Pizzeria in America?

Tonight I had yet another great meal at Two Amy's in Washington, DC. What makes this place one of the best casual Italian eateries in the country, and arguably the best pizzeria? I'm not quite sure. All I know is that the ingredients are all incredibly fresh, the space is simply and handsomely designed and has this incredibly authentic feel about it. Not surprisingly, 2 Amy's is always packed with a diverse group of diners who can't get enough. Tonight, over some delicious smoked mozzarella, sun-dried tomato, fried eggplant and toasted pine-nut pizza with my friend Emily, I realized that not only is 2 Amy's pizza on a much higher level than any other purveyor of thin crust, wood fire oven baked pizza, but they make other purported Neapolitan pizza specialists look foolish. In addition to the pizza, there is a wide variety of crostini, cured meats and pork (some of it, such as lardo, made in-house) sandwiches on delicious bread baked at the restaurant, and cheeses. The wine list only has wines from points south of Rome. It is chock-full of interesting varietal wines (it is Italy after all) by-the-glass including uva de Troia, pecorino, asprinio, four different Aglianico's . And none of these cost more than $9 for a generous glass; many are $7 and under. For any San Franciscans reading this, think A16, with better prices for wine and pizza that is much, much better. I encourage anyone who is in our nation's capital for a long enough time to eat a meal to go to 2 Amy's. It won't disappoint.

So now that I am properly nourished, I'm going to watch a little more of this Tupac thing on TV, read for a bit and get some sleep. Did anyone out there happen to see Kanye West on Jimmy Kimmel?? If you want to wear a t-shirt with a scarf, that's fine, but you ought to also have some really loud colored leg warmers, and be locking your fixed gear bike on your way into the coffee shop as well. And what's up with the four piece brass section and string quartet? Kanye has to be the single most over-rated performer and recording artist in hip-hop history. Tons of respect for dude as a producer, executive producer, and a seriously talented beatmaker - one of the most savvy and skillful in hip-hop's history. He may be self conscious and not afraid to admit it, but the self-confidence has simultaneously gone way overboard. Someone cut this guy off. I hope that his new record stops selling. Now.

50 years of 'catering to the prosperous carriage trade'

This press release is full of tasty nuggets about one of New York's (and America's) most famous wine merchants. Let's hope that the new location for this ever so innovative retailer does continues to be successful and does not 'gently head southward.' From the press release: "Patrons can take home a Methuselah of 1995 Dom Pérignon Champagne prominently displayed at US$14,950, but nearby, under an 'Our Picks' sign, they can also find a Cristalino nonvintage brut cava from Spain for US$7. 95." It appears as though New York's most famous merchant continues to head in the right direction....

Maybe I shouldn't hate too much, though. Recently I purchased a bottle of 1971 Jean Grivot VR (just village wine) that was part of a private collection and tagged with this merchant's label, and it was still showing well. Not life changing, but still a good amount of vibrancy and interest to it.

I look forward to exploring the bustling New York retail wine scene this coming week.

I am currently on the first stop of my Fall 2007 East Coast tour: Baltimore, MD. Between services at synagogue, catching up with family, eating large amounts of food and grazing on leftovers, it is the usual feast for the senses. Here are some highlights, arranged by setting:

Synagogue

Shul (yiddish for synagogue or what my reform sistren and brethren refer to as 'temple') was awesome. Someone who sounded exactly like Frankie Pantengeli was seated one row behind us, though instead of warning Michael about Hyman Roth, he was cracking (in a voice about 5 notches above a whisper) hilarious one-liners throughout the service. On the sermon ("It was a litte long.") Commenting on a passerby ("She definitely has a nose job!") One other highlight was the "Hee-nay-nee" prayer, which was delivered in a soulful, take 'em to, um, church, re-mix style. I don't think it went over particularly well in the conservative (both religiously and aesthetically) Chizuk Amuno congregation. Needless to say, Phillip Bailey would have been proud of the falsetto notes that my man Manny Perlman was hitting. There was also some improv talking/shouting in the classic R&B style "I KNOW you hear me hashem!" that made people sit up in their seats and take notice. Sadly, based on the feedback I heard, I don't think that the re-mix approach will be repeated next year. Too bad, I really enjoyed it for a change.

Parent's House

Mimosa's, even though they were made with Tropicana OJ, were crisp and tasty. Having a good quality cava (Mont Marcal Brut Reserva) certainly helps. Though I was never a liver fan growing up, I must say that Foie gras was the gateway, and now I am enjoying traditional Jewish chopped liver. What we had yesterday, from the legendary Edmart's, was delicious. Mom did it up with her sweet noodle kugel. Grilled chicken, string bean and tomato salad was savory and very flavorful. Corned beef, poached salmon (say it like a Baltimorean, 'poooched saaamen') and a mixed greens salad rounded out the buffet. Delicious chocolate chip cookies and chocolate chip cake were served for dessert, with some fresh fruit for nutritional balance. Mmm, chocolate chips....

The Wine Source

It was a disappointing trip to what I imagine is still Baltimore's best overall wine shop. The space is large, airy and bright, with a decent enough selection of wines, as well as a great little cheese and charcuterie section. However, the displays are not as attractive as I remember them. More importantly, it seems as though the selection has been dumbed down quite a bit. Maybe a necessary business decision, given that it seems very difficult to find help on the floor when you need it. You definitely could do a whole lot worse, and I don't want to be too tough on them as it is still a solid store (for Baltimore, VERY solid). Just a bit disappointed is all. I was mixing a case for my parents (half red, half white, $12/btl) and it wasn't as easy or fun a process as I imagined it to be; I had to work to find some interesting, well-priced bottles).

OK, off to another smaller shop to mix another case. Good yuntuv!

My early front-runners for Top Rose's of 2007

OK, I must admit that I am a sucker for reading best of lists. I have never attempted to draw one up myself though. Here is a list that is not by any means comprehensive, rather an indication of some highlights in my rose degustement over the past several months. I hope that you will find this list fresh and tasty.

10. Domaine Begude Rose 2006 - This one sneaked onto the list, and to be honest there might have been some other roses that are equally worthy of this spot. Anyway, this is a tasty, very light pink colored Pinot Noir rose from Limoux, a cool (for the Languedoc) area known for its sparkling wine and Chardonnay. Gulpable and non-offensive, this shows the crisp, white wine side of rose. (click here for purchasing info.)

9. Kir Yianni Akakies 2006 - Now we're getting into the list...Greece's only AOC rose, Akakies is produced from Xinomavro grapes in Amyndeon (an AOC of Macedonia in Northern Greece). Intense, electric pink color, with upfront flavors of pomegranate and raspberries. Maybe because it is still a youngin', but I usually find this rose to be a bit lighter on its feet and more piquant. Still a winner though, and always one of my favorites. Click here for purchasing info.

8. Edmunds St. John 'Bone Jolly' Rose 2006 - Finally, California rose with guts! Produced from Gamay in El Dorado, this wine is full of red berry fruit flavors and a hint of earthiness. It also has a bit of a sharp finish (not VA, just otherwise funky) but it still is very drinkable. Steve Edmunds makes excellent wines which are worth tracking down and supporting. Click here for purchasing info.

7. Copain 'Le Printemps' Rose 2006 - Two domestic wines in a rose top 10 list? Shocking. But this is another stellar rose, made up in Mendo. 50-50 Pinot Noir and Syrah. Salmon colored, with just a real sense of overall balance and subtlelty. Winemaker Wells Guthrie (no relation to Arlow, I don't think) is the real deal. Click here for purchasing info.

6. Grange Tiphaine Touraine Rose 2005 (tasted '05, current vintage is '06) - Damien Delecheneau makes serious wines in Touraine, in the Loire Valley - home to the best wine values in the world. This rose is a blend of Grolleau, Gamay and Cot, and is produced from grapes specifically grown and harvested to make rose wine. Simultaneously pungent and earthy, crisp and refreshing. Mmm....Click here for purchasing info.

5. JP Brun Beaujolais 'Rose d'Folie' 2006 - In addition to his tightly structured, powerful, 15+ year Morgons, this Beaujolais benchmark producer makes a fun sparkling wine and a gamay rose. This is the everyday drinker and wine geek crossover rose of the year. Click here for purchasing info

4. Joseph Roty Marsannay Rose 2004 - Bruno who? What I love about this rose is that it is made from Pinot Noir specifically grown for rose wine. And Roty releases it late so that it can gain complexity in the bottle and begin tasting like a rose expression of serious Pinot Noir, as opposed to bright and fruity Pinot Noir Light. There are some delicious meaty and earthy notes in this wine, making it ideal for cheese and charcuterie. Click here for purchasing info.

3. Clos Saron Rose 2006 - A real shocker. The 3rd California rose to make this list is the most impressive. It is the first of Gideon Beinstock's wines I have tasted (the second, the Carte Blanche, was equally impressive). The wine was in a blind tasting line-up and I thought it was a really good Nebbiolo based rose. Some bret on the nose, intense, darker cherry and berry flavors, very good acidity, a bit of bittersweet cocoa powder and dusty tannins on the finish. Fascinating stuff from the tiny AVA of North Yuba.

2. Chateau Musar Rose 2004 - Another example of Rose getting better after a few years in bottle. 100% Cinsault from Lebanon. This dark brick colored rose drinks almost like a southern Rhone red. It is all spicy cherry fruit, with hints of cinnamon to be found as well. Click here for purchasing info

1. Lopez de Heredia Rosado Crianza 1995 -One night I'm going to have a tasting of 15+ year old wines for things that are 'supposed' to be drunk young, like Rose, Muscadet, Sancerre, Verdejo...and Lopez will certainly be the piece de resistance. As the bearer of one of the coolest styles of wines around (Gran Reserva Rioja Rosado), Lopez is of course no stranger to wine geeks of many stripes and preferences. Their current release (I think), the '97 Rosado has a beautiful copper color, and an impossible to forget bouquet and flavor that is Rioja through and through. Delicate strawberry and cherry fruit, dried coconut, nutmeg, and many other flavors are really singing in this wine. It seems like it could go another 10 years. Un triunfo! (Oh yeah - it has an amazing 60+ second finish and is a 'tour de force in winemaking....') Click here for purchasing info.

Zombie Kid Likes Turtles

Part I of a 3 part series...