Tuesday, April 8, 2008

French Reductive Redux: A re-tasting of two 2006 vintage French wines

Both of these were originally tasted last October. One grown in granitic soil, the other in flinty soil. Both from very good producers. One wine is gamay from Touraine, while the other is syrah from the northern Rhone. While both wines I liked upon first tasting them, they had two common problems: sulphur, and a recent voyage across the Atlantic. On the palate they tasted fresh, subtle, and held great promise (if more than a bit disjointed), though the nose on each was a little, well, poopy. Have they come around?

2006 Domaine la Grange Tiphaine 'Les Cassieres'

An overwhelming manuric sensibility is still dominating the pretty raspberry fruit on the nose. Thankfully, there is a bit more to like on the palate. It's all red berry fruit, though tight still, and needing some more time to unfurl its gamay glory.

2006 Vincent Paris Cornas 'Granit 30'

This right here is proof of the powers, the beautiful, floral, transparent, delicate, airy, intoxicating powers, of northern rhone syrah done right. Pure blueberry and wild mixed berry fruit, with excellent minerality, concentration, length and balanced acidity. There seems to be more fruit and less of the white pepper/indian spice combo I recall from last tasting this wine. Nonetheless, the wine is delicious. Anyone who enjoys French wine should love this.

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