New to OWOS: ALBUM REVIEWS!

I'm just pleased as punch announce that I will soon be writing album reviews on this site. In keeping with the general theme and aesthetic of Old World Old School, most of these reviews will be for classic records with at least twenty years of age. A notable exception would be hip-hop records, which will likely include reviews of classics from 10 years and older.

It's about time that the music component to this site go beyond re-posting other people's youtube videos. Besides, the old adage that everyone's a critic doesn't just apply to wine, now, does it?

The idea is to post one review a week. Hope that you enjoy them and as always, I encourage you to weigh in with your opinions. Also, feel free to spread the word to any of your music geek friends.

As the inaugural review will be for one of my favorite records of all time, here's one of the tracks off this LP to whet the appetite.

The Whisky Review Vol. II number 2: Glenrothes

Founded in 1879, (exactly a century before the year of my birth), Glenrothes produces some of the finest single malt whiskies around. The distillery is located in the Speyside town of Rothes, which is also home to Glen Grant, Speyburn, Glen Spey and Caperdonich. Long known amongst master distillers as a source of terrific blending whisky, Speyside distilleries eventually struck out on their own and began bottling their own single malts, a trend which Glenrothes would follow and eventually, with some help from famed London wine merchant Berry Brothers & Rudd, further refine by producing vintage dated single malts. Unlike other houses who seek a consistent product for each level of aged single malt (10 year, 15 year, 18 year, etc), Glenrothes chose to highlight the variations which distinguish the best vintages. A master distiller checks the barrels' progress, and when he feels they are ready, they are bottled and then released. As in the case of port and champagne, not every vintage is declared.

Wood plays a pivotal role in producing a single malt's characteristic flavors. Oak is preferred, usually in the form of a used sherry or bourbon cask (it is now popular to use wine barrels from particularly well-known producers, but that is a relatively recent phenomenon). Glenrothes uses mainly oloroso sherry casks. More expensive than Bourbon, but a key element in producing the sort of rich, sweet flavors and velvety mouthfeel you get in the best Highland and Speyside single malts.

Glenrothes Select Reserve Single Malt Whisky

This would be the equivalent of a 10 year. Very classic Glenrothes, with a round texture, fairly rich, malty character on the mid-palate, and a mellow, balanced character. Just a wonderful house single malt, and a terrific introduction to the joys of Speyside whisky.

1985 Glenrothes Distillery Bottle Single Malt Whisky

Of the dozens of whiskies I have tasted over the past year or so, this one stands out and just might be my favorite. Originally release in 1997, this was recently re-released after some additional time in cask. It has the intensity of flavor and presence that only long, careful cask aging lends a spirit. Toffee, candied orange, vanilla, and spices are all there, as well as a gently floral finish and that impeccable Glenrothes balance. I don't use the word value and $100 together often when describing a bottle of anything, but this is absolutely a value and one to contemplate on your own or in the company of a few close friends.

Until the next chapter in dram-ology, be well, and don't forget your single malts!

Robert Camuto Re-cap

You may recall that a few weeks back, I was promoting a book reading and tasting featuring special guest Robert Camuto. He recently wrapped up a promotional book tour for his book Corkscrewed, which is an homage to independent French vignerons who passionately pursue their vision of producing their own wines from vine to bottle. Before discussing the event, I'd like to extend thanks to David McDuff, who first brought the event to my attention. As I am on host venue 18 Reason's email list, I'd have eventually discovered this was going on, but perhaps a bit later than I would have liked. Good looking out, Mr. McDuff.

Addressing the standing room only crowd of thirty or so people, seated shoulder to shoulder at four large communal tables, author Robert Camuto began his talk by commenting on the fairly recent resurgence of small independent vignerons, farming their grapes organically, slowly developing a niche market for their wines domestically and abroad. He then proceeded to describe his four broad requirements for good wine:

1.) Wine should reflect its specific terroir
2.) The production of wine should show respect for the environment
3.) Wine should be made with grapes
4.) Wine should be made mainly by people, and ought to be for sharing and enjoyment with others

Numbers 1 and 2 should make sense. As for number 3, it caused a few chuckles from the crowd; after all, wine by definition is made from fermented grapes, right? Well, some of you can probably see what Camuto was hinting at here. Wine should contain grapes, period (no additives such as wood chips, enzymes, designer yeasts, liquid tannins, etc.) Number four hints at the skyrocketing trend, begun in the 1970's and reaching astronomical heights in the past decade, of wine as valuable commodity, as a liquid investment to be flipped back and forth amongst collectors via the auction market.

After this introduction, Camuto began the tasting portion of the evening, briefly introducing a particular wine, and largely letting the wine do the talking. At times, he would go into more detail about the chapter describing a particular wine and region, as he did with the Robert & Bernard Plageoles 'Loin de l'oeuil' Gaillac Doux Controlee,' a delicious dessert wine from this region known for its bounty of obscure, nearly extinct varietals.

I am about midway through Robert Camuto's book. It is very well-written, in the descriptive, witty, keenly observant voice of a seasoned journalist. At the same time, it retains the author's personal perspective as an American ex-pat, recently introduced to the world of wine while living with his family in the south of France for the past eight years.

If you're interested in learning more about French wine and in reading an engaging, insightful look at wine through the eyes of some of its masterful producers, I would encourage you to purchase a copy of Robert Camuto's book on his website.

11th hour inspiration

Last night was one of those last minute dinners, conceived of an inspired notion so late in the day that you probably should have been sitting down to eat already. Hunger, I suppose, will occasionally spur a good idea. As I recall, we were extremely close to ordering Thai takeout, when one member of the household did not seem enthused about the idea. I had not intended to cook, but then it was 8:30pm with the clock ticking. Earlier in the day, a certain other member of the household had pointed out that we have lots of risotto taking up space in the pantry. The message was clear: cook up said risotto over the next few weeks, or it will find its way to the trash.

Fair enough, risotto it would be then. Often I am fond of cooking risotto with red wine (usually a barbera, or nebbiolo) as opposed to stock. The rice soaks up all of that delicious wine flavor, and besides, if you're an occasionally serious home chef without a regular supply of good homemade stock in the freezer, you're covered. This time around, however, I thought I would try white wine. With riesling on the mind, I chose a bottle of Hospitien Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett. I wanted to season the cooking liquid in what I thought to be a somewhat Friulian manner, so I settled on a couple of bay leaves, coriander, cumin seeds, and a bit of cinnamon. Noticing a butternut squash on the kitchen table, I decided to roast that and make a puree, blending in a bit of chopped fried bacon and placing the mixture beneath and on top of the rice.



I think it turned out pretty well, as did the roommates. Nicely seasoned, a bit sweet-ish from the Riesling (as I expected) but still very enjoyable. It complemented the rich, earthy-sweet squash flavors nicely, and the savory parmesan plus the salty, smoky bacon completed the balance of the dish.

And the wine?



I cracked open one of my three '02 Radikon Ribollas. Stanislaus Radikon makes wine that is difficult to categorize as either white or red. The skin maceration is so long that the color ends up looking like this.



Additionally, he uses no sulphur at any point in the grape growing or winemaking process. Not easy, but in his mind that's the only way to do things. For more Radikon info check out this Eric Asimov post on the producer.

While I think I have retailer/ Italian wine guru Sergio Esposito and his prolific emailing digits to credit (earlier in the day he had sent out a Radikon email), I wonder had I not received that email, if I would have have made the same dip into the cellar, knowing that the pairing would be such a strong one. And it was a great pairing. The wine seemed to really bring out the flavors of the dish, the spices in particular, especially the cumin. And though the nose is so brooding and complex, this wine always seems to finish with such a light, pure flourish, the tingling acidity urging you to take another sip or grab another forkful of food.

Having enjoyed this wine twice before without food, and being blown away, I must admit that the experience pales in comparison to a terrific meal which highlights and complements this phenomenal bottle of wine.

A Kiwi Tasting Note (?)

I find this hard to believe, but I am about to post about a New Zealand wine! Don't worry, it will not be a Marlborough sauvignon blanc, as just about 99.99% of them are garbage. No, I would prefer to write about a much less planted, more noble (in New Zealand, anyway) grape varietal: pinot gris.

Aurum Estates is located in Central Otago, which at 45 degrees lattitude is the world's most southerly wine region. It is also apparently quite visually stunnning, alpine, with mountain tops rising high above the vineyards. Much has been made of the pinot noir here, though, with the exception of Rippon, I still don't get the hype.

Aurum's 2006 pinot gris is an example par excellence of pure new world fruit. I say that because, while there are no mineral notes, the dripping ripe aromas and flavors of mandarins, melon and pink grapefruit (NOT the processed, clichéd, NZ sauv blanc type of grapefruit, but rather, the riper, more natural Alsace type grapefruit flavors) are stunning. Yes, this is a wine from New Zealand, the yeasts used for fermentation may be cultured, there is a touch of heat on the finish, etc. But, I must admit, I find this wine to be more interesting, and more appealing, than many old world whites (including some riesling from the Sunday '07 German riesling tasting) I have tasted over the course of the past week.

When the new world achieves, even we staunch traditionalists and Europhiles must recognize. Hats off, Aurum. Keep up the good work.

Some brief Scotch notes

In an effort to continue to create more diverse content, I've decided to occasionally post whisky tasting notes, likely focusing on single malt scotch.

Why single malt? Well, IMNSHO, it is the whisky that best reflects a specific place, showing consistent style depending upon where in Scotland it's from (Islay, Highland or Speyside, for example). While it is tough for many people to appreciate differences in flavor at 40% abv or higher (as it occasionally still is for me), the truth is that with some tasting under one's belt, and a bit of an effort, many people slowly gain an appreciation for quality single malts. And once you do, you will eventually realize that, just as you can't live with one type of wine alone, you will need at least several different whiskies on hand to satisfy your need for for variety.

Here are a few of the single malts currently residing in my liquor cabinet:

Isle of Arran 10 year old (Isle of Arran)

Arran is a tiny island lying east of Campbeltown. Its lone distillery is a fairly young one, having been established less than twenty years ago. Their 10 year is light, unpeated, and very drinkable. Sort of a gateway scotch, as it is not too intensely flavored from a higher alcoholic strength nor a heavily peated malt. Light as a sea breeze, with a hint of sweetness on the mid-palate and a subtle, salt inflected finish.

Springbank 10 year old (Campbeltown)

I'm not 100% positive, but I believe that this is Scotland's oldest, continuously independently owned and operated distillery. And their stuff is unbelievably good. I'd love to have the 15 year, but at about $90 it's significantly pricier than this $55 bottle. The 10 year is peatier than I had expected, but beyond the slightly aggressive peat lies a powerfully flavored, nutty, honeyed whisky. The finish is nicely briny, lingers for a while and dissolves elegantly after a while. As powerful and elegant a 10 year as you're likely to find.

1990 Glen Grant 18 year old Gordon & Macphail Reserve (Speyside)

This is a custom bottling done for K&L by independent bottler Gordon & Macphail. An independent bottler selects and purchases casks from various distilleries, bottling them separately and independent of the distillery,though both names are displayed on the label (an example might be, say, 1991 Macallan Murray McDavid 16 year old ). Just as English merchants have a history of selecting the best barrels of port, or perhaps sherry, the same model was established with Scotch. This Glen Grant is a solid Speyside whisky, with some candied citrus and butterscotch notes.

I've also got a few bottles of another fantastic Speyside single malt, Glenrothes, but I'll save that for another post.

I encourage those of you who have not already done so to experiment with single malts and indulge in the occasional wee dram - a perfect winter pick me up during these rainy (Bay Area) and snowy (nearly everywhere else) winter evenings.

And yet again, the tasting group convenes: '07 German Riesling meets Brandenburg Concertos and Die Mensch Maschine

Hope you enjoyed the Kraftwerk video.

As you may have surmised from the above title, it was something of a celebration of all things glorious and of teutonic origin for my tasting group's most recent meeting tonight. I selected the highly regarded '07 German vintage as a theme, cooked up some brats, made some cabbage to accompany, and played JS Bach to thematically tie things together. Kraftwerk's Man Machine was requested (and shortly thereafter un-requested) by a few fellow group members. As for the wines, we all agreed that it was a very solid showing. I divided the seven wines into two flights: one trocken (dry) flight of 4 and a flight of three kabinetts.

FLIGHT ONE: Dry Riesling

There was a fairly strong divide between people's two least favorite wines, and their two favorites.

2007 Johannes Leitz Riesling Eins Zwei Dry

By a single point, this was the least favorite wine. Personally, I found the wine to be aromatically closed at first. With air, some tart, red autumn apples as well as yellow stone fruits emerged. The palate was very tangy, reminding me of tart yellow plums skins. Crisp and thirst quenching, but also, I feel, deemed a bit lean and one note by this tough crowd of folks mainly in the wine trade.

2007 Von Schubert Maximin Grunhauser Riesling QbA Trocken

This Ruwer riesling had a strong mineral stamp on the nose. It smelled funky and very slatey. The palate was earthy, soft, very textural, and a whole lot more mature tasting than its youth might suggest. Interestingly enough, the estate is one of the few non-interventionist ones in the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. Native yeast fermentation, and judging by the style perhaps a relatively minimal dose of sulphur as well. Ultimately, while this was interesting, the austere dryness, pungent minerality and lack of fruit did not do much for me or many others in the group.

2007 Becker Landgraf Riesling Trocken

This up-and-coming Rheinhessen estate impressed many folks, with three first place votes and two seconds out of nine participants. Johannes and Julia, a husband and wife team, source grapes from particulalry chalky soils in the Rheinhess. They ferment using a 50-50 mix of indigenous and cultured yeast. I found a certain savor and harmonious quality to this wine's aromas. A definite mineral stamp, but not as overbearing or defining as on the Von Schubert. I was particularly taken with the effortless balance and purity of flavors.

2007 Weingut Ott Riesling Vom Rottem Schotter

Scandalous... the top finishing wine of this German focused Riesling tasting was actually an imposter, a ringer, an Austrian wine! I'd be crying foul, except for the fact that Ott's wines are so delicious and in this particular case show so incredibly well out the gate. Some comments from my colleagues: 'Great depth,' 'Good weight and richness,' 'characteristic petrol notes.' We all agreed that this wine was the most expressive on this particular evening. This is made from biodynamically farmed grapes grown in a vineyard in the Wagram region of Austria (due west of Vienna, just before you reach the Kamptal, Kremstal, and Wachau).

FLIGHT 2: The Kabinetts

Given budgetary restraints, as well as the fact that 2007 is such a classic vintage, perfect for Kabinett production, I decided to select a few Kabinetts for the off-dry portion of this evening's tasting.

2007 Von Schubert Maximin Grunhauser Estate Riesling

As with the trocken, this wine had a decidedly slatey mineral stamp. It's a dry kabinett, smelling of browning apples left out on the counter. It has a creamy mid palate, with broad, funky, lighter flavors relative to many German Kabinetts. This wine showed completely, utterly apart from the other Kabinetts. More oxidative winemaking, combined with the unique Ruwer terroir, perhaps?

2007 JJ Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett

Though this had an equal amount of points as the Schubert, it garnered more first place votes, and as a result placed higher. While some folks thought that this was textbook Riesling, complete and offering up everything a classic young Kabinett should, others took issue with the noticeably reductive state (it is a JJ Prum wine, after all). Nevertheless, I would fall into the fans of Prum camp. Yes, they are pricey wines, doused with sulphur along every single step of the winemaking process, etc. But they also have a certain power, depth of flavor, and typicity that scream Mosel Riesling, and more specifically that perfectly recall their respective vineyard sites.

2007 Selbach Oster Zeltingger Riesling Kabinett

Fans of this wine claimed that it had all the elements I found in the Prum. While I enjoyed this, it was simply on the level of a solid, quaffable, off-dry riesling. Nothing too evocative, complex, or thought provoking. A solid wine for salads, seafood, or various Asian cuisines (with apologies for the cliched suggested off-dry riesling pairings, if you're reading, Lyle).

So there you have it. Another PMW group tasting in the books. Hopefully we can settle on a date for the next one and get back in the swing of monthly tastings. Thanks to all those who came out and participated on a rainy Sunday night in the city. Special shout out to guests Catherine and Josh (who showed on short notice and with an early morning inventory to deal with tomorrow) as well as Susan, my co-worker from Birmingham (England, not Alabama) who lent her considerable nosing and tasting talents to the group.