Cellar acquisitions for the month of may

I took a break from cellaring inexpensive wines last month; instead I opted to buy a few bottles of one of the more compelling white wines I have ever drunk: 2002 Radikon Ribolla. Oh, I also bought a bottle of Old Fettercairn Stillman's Dram 26 year old scotch - a great deal but still not cheap.

This month it's back to purchasing six bottles each of a few inexpensive wines that will improve over 4-5 years. The first is the 2006 Acustic Montsant recently written up here. Why? Because it's delicious and balanced and I know that it will improve for at least a few years. Next wine is one I tasted today, the 2005 Montfaucon Cotes du Rhone. In a vintage of many rich, heavy rhone wines, this one has spice, savory herbs, and meaty savor - all while maintaining pretty cherry fruit and a lithe transparency on the palate. It's a no brainer for drinking now or cellaring for a while. Especially when you work in a shop that imports it directly.

A quick meal at Orson

Prior to my 11:20pm red eye flight this past Thursday, I was lucky enough to meet with my parents, brother and girlfriend for some shared small plates at Orson. You may recall my enthusiasm for this sister restaurant of Citizen Cake from the LdH wine dinner post a few weeks ago.

Every bit the trendy SOMA (that would be the neighborhood 'south of market') hot spot, Orson is sleek and well designed. Entering the restaurant, a menu set several inches back in a glass enclosed diarama gives diners a glimpse of the creative flavor combinations to come. Contemporary and minimalist, the large dining space could be perceived as cool and spacious or cold and cavernous, depending on one's viewpoint. A large bar stands in the center of the dining room, with most of the tables in the front and a lounge area lying in the back. Upstairs there is a private room, another bar and lounge area, and a catwalk overlooking the restaurant.

I started off with a glass of 2006 Domaine de la Pepiere Muscadet 'Clos des Briords,' and enjoyed it so much that I would order another glass. Since this was such a quick meal, there was not time for more extensive exploration of the wine list. Though I did try a sip of the 2006 Deux Montille (Hubert de Montille negociant label) Pouilly-Fuisse. Ripe, fruity, round and a bit oaky, it was ok but not great; it reminded me of a Pernand-Vergelesses without the brightness or the minerality. There are some good selections by the bottle on the franco-centric list, including 2002 Olga Raffault Chinon 'Les Picasses,' ($36) Domaine Berthet Bondet Cremant de Jura ($40) and 1981 LdH Vina Tondonia Blanco Gran Reserva ($151, but worth the splurge). One observation which I was to harried to notice Thursday night but wonder to myself now: Where are the rieslings?? Not a single German, or Austrian, or even Californian riesling are on the list. This, in my view, is a nearly unpardonable oversight.

As for food, the first dish to arrive was charred hamachi tartare with avocado, which was fresh, delicate and sumptuously textured, with a very slightly bitter, thin caramelized char on top. It was a terrific match with the crisp, pure, intensely flavored Muscadet. Next there was a soft boiled tempura egg in a light nori and scallion enhanced miso broth. I'm a sucker for tempura, but the interplay between the crisp fry, soft egg white, rich, flavorful, runny yolk and delicate earthy broth made this my dish of the night. A beet, grapefruit, pinenut and ricotta salata salad was fine - fresh but nothing special. Halibut with turnips and celery, served in a tepid, timid watery green curry broth was of questionable freshness and just an awful dish. We ended on a better note: dark chocolate, espelette pepper, olive oil and sea salt pizza. It probably should have been listed as a dessert, since the savory ingredients were still playing a supporting role to the chocolatey pizza. But it was an unusually tasty play on such a popular staple, arriving in just the right moment for me to grab a slice on the go, with wheeled luggage in one hand and the pizza in the other.

Live and Direct from Broward County, Florida.

It's been a long time - and I should have never left you. Without a dope blog to, um, read to?

Sorry, I couldn't resist. So I promise that any of you weekend web hounds, retail warriors and assorted others who read will have more to look forward to next week. Mainly some tasting notes, as well as tales of a few special wines drunk, uneven pavement on Valencia St and dining at Orson.

In the meantime, I'd like to briefly share with you my re-confirmed impressions of Broward County, Florida (that would be the county for much of the area north of Miami, including Ft Lauderdale, I think, Boca Raton, Hollywood, the Aventura Mall, etc.). I am here for a good friend's wedding. By way of reminder to some, it is also one of the Florida counties known for the infamous 'hanging chads' of the 2000 presidential election.

The air feels warm and heavy, reminding you of the fact that a thunderstorm can surface at any given moment. Leaving the airport, I note the landscpape, a vaguely repeating sprawl of highway ramps, shopping centers, hotels, office parks and well manicured planned communties, lush with varied vegetation interspersed between the stucco condominiums. Cars are numerous, pedestrians few, and the occasional bicycle pedals by. Upon entering any building, the A/C is cranked up to 11. It is a cold, bullying blast of air, the polar opposite of the lazy, warm, lingering air on the outside.

That's all I've got on Broward County, Florida for now - probably not to be continued. I like weddings, and the occasional lazy pool time is cool, but to my taste this is amongst the least desirable real estate in the country. Different strokes for different folks, I guess.

Alright, I'm gonna go get my 'A' on the Southweset return flight.

Have a good weekend.

Some wines I tasted today

Pt. 1 - The Spanish

Talai Berri Txacolina 2007

Good, fresh, vaguely citrussy, with a light sparkle. Still bottle shocked though. And these txacoli prices today, geez louise. The wines are fun quaffers, but $20? I know the 3 txacoli production D.O.'s are tiny and most of the stuff is drunk in San Sebastian, but for $20+ a pop, I think I'm inclined to do my txacoli drinking exclusively in Pais Vasco. Unless we're talking about the rare red or rose txacoli, which are worth the price of admission on rarity and weirdness alone.

Hijos de Cresencia Marino Catajarros Rosado Cigales 2007

The first '07 spanish rose I have tried turned out a winner. On the nose it appears that it might be a very fruity, bordering on cloying, rosado. On the palate though, the wine has plenty of red fruit with a nice austere, dry finish. Just the ticket for rose season. 100% tempranillo.

Bodegas Eguren Reinares Tempranillo Tierra de Castilla 2007

Produced by the folks at Bodegas Eguren, this declassified Rioja, from a 15 year old tempranillo vineyard, shows foresty, dark fruit on the nose, and is simple, dark fruited tempranillo. Not bad, but not a whole lot of fun either.

Bodegas Ugarte 'Martin Cendoya' Rioja Reserva 2001

Produced primarily from a 75 year old tempranillo vineyard in the Rioja Alavesa sub-zone, with some mazuelo (carinena) and graciano, this is a modern, black cherry scented Rioja with a so-so palate. It is juicy and competently made, but comes across as a bit monolithic and boring. Especially given the mid $30's price point.

Condado de Sequeiras Ribeira Sacra 2006

The second red from Riberia Sacra to impress me in the past week. I'm convinced - this is THE spot for exciting, medium-bodied, balanced reds in Spain right now. Licorice and a combination of dark and blue fruit on the nose lead to a soft, supple palate, with great texture, lively acidity, and abundant class. Un triunfo!

Bodega Luzdivino Vinademoya Leiros Bierzo 200?

I goofed and did not note the vintage here. Either '03 or '04. It is 100% mencia aged in French oak for 14 months. Deep, dark, grapey, spicy and somehow all very Spanish smelling and tasting. A broad generalization, I know, but there is that combination of ripe fruit, oak spice, and just enough acidity to tie it together that to me is the mark of many of Spain's better wines, whether or not they are made in a style that I like or not. I'd like to try this wine in 5 years to see how it comes together. To their credit, the producer apparently feels as though they need to tone down the new oak on this wine, which I think is a good direction on their part.

Cellars Sangenis i Vaque Porrera Priorat 2005

I have tasted a lot of '05 Montsant and Priorat in the past two weeks, and for some reason this wine just isn't doing it for me. Not to be yet another Priorat basher, that's just too easy. There are an ocean of over-priced, overly alcholic and oaky wines in Priorat, and there are a few good wines out there; these are not meant to be drunk upon release. Not even close. I've said it before and I'll say it again, these are the Chateauneuf du Papes of Spain.

Valduero Ribera del Duero Reserva 2000

I hate to be in agreement with Dr. Jay Miller - who enjoyed this and rated it highly - though I'm sure it will continue to be a rare occurence. Anyway, this wine is killer like Jacob (not Jay!) Miller. Cooked black cherry and blackberry on the nose, with great spice, weight, sweet/savory fruit and acidity to tie it all together. This is what good Ribera del Duero is all about: power and dark fruit, with a ton of flavor intensity and enough lift from the acidity to not dull or tire the palate.

Vinedos de Ithaca Penelope Garnatxa Blanca 2006

This has a nice honeyed, yellow fruit, chewy thing going on. Very interesting dessert wine. Light on its feet but substantial and toothsome at the same time.

Vinedos de Ithaca Penelope Garnacha Peluda 2006

Now this is some terrific wine! Sweet scents of strawberry, watermelon and spice lead to some more of the same on the palate, with a funky wet slate stone minerality as well. The wine is produced from late harvest outer rows of garnacha, which tend to get riper than the interior rows of the vineyard. This is truly unique, tasty dessert stuff.

More Oil: Two site specific Tuscans

The Rare Wine Company knows their madeira and their Tuscan olive oils. I tried two of these oils recently; both are from the same producer and reflect two different olive grove sites.

Grati 'Monte' Orcio 4 Single Cru Extra Virgin Olive Oil 2007
Very crisp, green aromas of freshly cut grass, which follows through to a grassy, peppery palate.

Grati 'Vetrice' Orcio 4 Single Cru Extra Virgin Olive Oil 2007

Darker shade of green, with a very grassy nose and strong, full-bodied, slightly bitter olive oil taste. It's more viscous, more deeply flavored, and the more intense of these two oils.

I enjoy comparing different extra virgin olive oils at various price points: the supermarket stuff, to the slightly better brand, to what might be your favorite go to (for me it's Frantoia from Sicily), to a very limited production, artisanal oil. The progression of intensity, viscosity, and spice is pretty interesting to taste side by side.

On food, wine and mashups.

I've been meaning to write up a few random food products and wines recently, so I figured I'd do so while listening to some terrific mashups by Bigga Bush. For the musically challenged, a mashup is basically taking a popular song, keeping one aspect (say, the lyrics, for example) and adding an entirely different musical track from another song. Sort of a supercharged remix, or a double sample. As an example, take the 'Crazy Right Now' smash hit from Beyonce, keep the vocal track, ditch the mediocre music behind it, and then add a classic mid-70's reggae instrumental track: a dramatic and newlyenergized, soulful tune is born.

2007 Domaine de Fenouillet Cotes du Ventoux Rose
Everything that I don't like about many roses is present in this wine: very candied red fruit, to the point of artificial flavors. This is generic southern French rose wine at its worst. Surprisingly it's imported by Neil Rosenthal, who is usually a solid name to see on the back of a wine bottle. Not so for this wine. Not reccommended.


2006 Acustic Cellars Acustic Montsant
50% Samso (carinena) and 50% garnacha. There is a vibrancy, freshness and acid balance in this wine that is lacking in all too many wines from Montsant - most of them in fact. This wine shows that Montsant has the potential to be to Priorat what good Cotes du Rhone is to Chateauneuf du Pape: a region producing value wines that are great to drink young or even with moderate age, and that often come across as more enjoyable than their bigger, more expensive siblings in the fancier appellation. $18

2006 Doña Paula Malbec Lujan de Cuyo

Malbec? You might be asking yourself, isn't that usually overripe, oaky, nasty wine that usually has the consulting stamp of Paul Hobbs? Well, not always. This is suprisingly delicious Malbec with a sense of real balance. Still dark fruited, still full-bodied and still a real mouthful of wine, but with a nice mineral inflected, dense, tactile sensation on the palate. $12.

Alois Golles Pumpkin Seed Oil and Apple Balsamic Vinegar

If you're reluctant to discover the joys of good pumpkin seed oil in the well stocked kitchen, you need to get over that stuff and take a trip to flavor country. Serious, gourmet condiment flavor country, courtesy of Styria in southern Åustria. This stuff is black and viscous. When poured over bread or mixed with extra virgin olive oil for salad dressing (the only way you should do a dressing with this oil, by the way - otherwise it's too strong) the oil imparts a beautiful intense peridot green hue. Rich, complex, dark and nutty tasting, with a finish that is long and tastes like the essence of pumpkin. And the apple balsamic vinegar is sweet, mellow and a natural companion to the oil. I use a splash of this vinegar, combined with shallots, salt, pepper, and a 2-1 ratio of extra virgin olive oil to pumpkin seed oil, for an addictive salad dressing. Add some chopped walnuts and your favorite salad cheese for your new favorite salad. $42 for a companion set of pumpkin seed oil and apple balsamic vinegar. Each is packed in a 250ml bottle.

OutKast - Ain't No Thang

Well, the record company didn't want me to post the last video, so it's back to 'ain't no thang.' A better song imo, anyway. Apologies for the lackluster photo montage.