Straight Class: Jo Landron Vin Mousseux

Upon spotting a double facing of Jo Landron sparkling wine in the store last week, I was truly excited. Landron's muscadets (bottled under the Domaine de la Louvetrie label) are stellar, and I did not know that we would be getting in a bit of Jo's vin mousseux as well. Tonight I tried said bottle of sparkling wine from Muscadet, and it was not only good, but really fucking good.

Now I can appreciate sparklers from all over, whether it is a crisp cremant de Loire, an incomparable Schloss Gobelsburg sekt, or a classy cava like Raventos i Blanc. That being said, I appreciate these wines for what they are, without trying to make any comparison to Champagne (Gobelsburg, now that I think of it, is very champagne like as well). Jo's sparkling wine brings to mind good, entry level NV champagne. The intense golden yellow color, as well as the broad, creamy palate and soft mousse, suggests that this might be fruit from '00, and '01, though I really can not make this claim with any certainty. What is certain is the combination of chalky minerality, acidity and intense flavors that bring real deal champagne to mind. Not most grand marques, mind you, but solid entry level non-vintage grower champagne. Now that I've built this wine up, I don't believe that anyone else carries it, though there is a certain store in Manhattan who might be able bring some in from Jo himself....

Potluck Piemontese

It was a great night of mainly Piemontese inspired food and wine last night at my friend Mark's house over in the east bay. Tasty food, interesting wines and an internationally diverse crowd - Spain, Italy, France, Russia, Iowa, Berkeley and of course Baltimore were all represented.

To start there were antipasti, including Mark's specialty, acciughe al verde (anchovies in garlicky parsley sauce). I was really enjoying a bottle of Slovenian rizling with this (that's not ebonics, its slovenian!) as well as an interesting Pinot Gris from Alsace.

2004 Dveri-Pax Renski Rizling 'E'

A local importer brought this wine. A bit petrolly on the nose, and somehwere in between an Alsatian and New Zealand style of dry Riesling. The wine had the flavor authority, minerality and balance of Alsace Riesling, but with a lighter touch and lower alcohol. As far the as the NZ comparison, it's just that the fruit was so juicy and new world-ish. Not overdone or artificial tasting in anyway, though. This wine tastes natural. I'll have to seek out more wines from these guys. Slovenia, it's not just about Movia....

2005 Domaine Loew Pinot Gris Bruderback Clos Marienberg

Interesting wine! There was all of the yellow stone fruit and lightly honeyed goodness of Alsace Pinot Gris, but with a distinctive minerality running through the wine. I could taste fossilized marine organisms in this wine, not because fossilized marine organisms are a regular part of my diet, but, you know, that's what this wine brings to mind. Pinot Blanc and Klevner from Alsace sometimes conveys this funky, chewy minerality. This was delicious with the secondo of fennel braised pork.

2005 Bruno Giacosa Nebbiolo d'Alba

Really austere and closed at first, the wine opened up to reveal some powerful, but still reserved, mixed berry fruit, with an increasingly iron mineral vein after some breathing in the glass. Very young nebbiolo, but definitely pure class, and worthy of putting away for at least 7 years. Served with my 'Risotto al Barolo' recipe (a good one from Lydia B) this wine worked nicely. Though the wine below might have been the better pairing.

2004 Piero Busso Barbaresco Santa Stefanetto

Tre bicchieri and it's easy to see why. This wine is clearly done in a modern style, powerful, red fruited, soft, meaty. Aromatics definitely take a back seat to a very enticing, surprisingly approachable palate. Modern nebbiolo based wines from the Piedmont are not nearly as interesting, subtle, or haunting as the best of their traditional counterparts, but they certainly are fun to drink. Of all the wine regions in the world with the Traditionalist vs Modernist dynamic, Piedmont's modern wines, I think, are the most balanced, least oaky, and most drinkable. Somehow this worked fairly well with the fennel braised pork, but not as well as the pinot gris, which I find to be good pork wine in general. For this dish, with the subtle, slowly caramelized fennel and hint of coriander, white wine seemed to be in order. Very impressive meat braising by importer (and chef?) Gary.

Lest we forget, there was a terrific salad - gotta have my greens. Not very authentically Piedmont, as it's usually meat, meat, and more meat, but here in the Bay area we party hard, drink well, eat well and do not neglect our local, organic veges, alright? Olga made a delicious mixed green salad with one of the tastiest vinaigrettes I have had. It tasted as though there was somehow artichoke flavor infused in the vinaigrette (?) Very lightly dressed and topped with Israeli feta, this was my favorite type of salad, fresh, light, plentiful and flavorful.

Some delicious, simple 2006 Saracco Moscato was tasty with a variety of Gorgonzola, and even better with the lemon polenta nut cake. Crumbly and precarious to handle, but eminently tasty.

Thanks Mark, Chloe, Raquel, Olga and Gary for making it a great evening.

BLACK UHURU LIVE DOUBLE PLAY- Pt. I Youths of Eglington

FYA!!! One of my all-time favorite songs from one of my favorite albums, Red. Sly and Robbie are quite simply one of the tightest, funkiest, most bad-ass riddim sections of all times. Oh, and the other musicians here are no slouches, either.

BLACK UHURU DOUBLE PLAY! Pt. 2 Plastic Smile live at Rockpalast!

Little known fact about Black Uhuru: Puma Jones dropped out of Columbia University to tour with the band. She was an American from Alabama who was bitten by the reggae bug. Very talented singer, who hit some really interesting harmonies with Michael and Duckie. Rest in peace, Puma.

Spanish (and a few Portuguese) TN's

OK, heeeere we go:

Raventos i Blanc l'Hereu NV

As the history goes, this estate is run by a member of the Codorniu family (of Freixenet fame). Familiar wine story: There was a split in the family and they struck a deal whereby one side would keep the family name, or the brand (la marca en espanol) and the other would retain ownership of all of the vineyards. Well, of course Raventos i Blanc, which uses only estate fruit, kept the choice vineyards. Taste this cava and you'll see who truly got the better end of the deal, that is if authenticity and real quality are things you might be into. This is classy, bone dry, electric cava. As Q-tip would say, it's a vibrant thing. Busta Rhymes might concur: A viverant, viverant....

Solar de Serrade Alvarinho Vinho Verde 2006

This vinho verde is 100% alvarinho (albarino en Espana). The winery is located in the northernmost sub-zone of Vinho Verde, closest to the Spanish border. And it really reminds me of Do Ferreiro, which for anyone familiar with Do Ferreiro is a good thing. Very expressive, with a smoky minerality on the nose leading to fresh, natural, red apple type flavors.

Tajinaste Valle de la Orotava Blanco 2006

White wine from the canary islands, produced from Listan blanco. They think that it might be a variant of Palomino. Dry, crisp, green-yellow pear-apple fruit, with a bitter snap to the finish. OK but not particularly exciting.

Ladera Sagrada Castelo de Papa Godello 2006

Fatter, broader, and clunkier than I like my godello, or any white wine for that matter. I would rather not call out an importer like this, but many more misses from these folks (no names) and I will not be trying their other wines anytime soon. There are too many other companies bringing in much better wines from Spain right now.

Niepoort Redoma 2006

New french oak warning! A dead ringer for young village Chassagne-Montrachet, of course minus the fruit intensity and acidity. I'm keeping this one in the fridge for a few days to see if I will be proven wrong, but I seriously doubt it. To be honest, you're better off buying St. Aubin for $10 less. You can put the money you saved into buying some Niepoort 20 yr tawny.

Crucillon Garnacha (Bodegas Aragonesas) 2005

Not bad for $7. Cherry fruited, unoaked, natural tasting garnacha.

Quiles Primitivo 'Raspay' Tinto Brut 2002

While it takes the prize for most confusing wine label I have ever seen, this 100% Monastrell from Alicante is some nuanced, pretty wine. Yes, I did just refer to Monastrell (Mourvedre for the francophiles) as 'pretty.' Fermented in 100% used American oak, this wine's nose is delicate, red fruited and spicy, with cinnamon stick leading the way. On the palate the red fruit and spice continues initially, though it transforms into licorice and dark fruit skins on the finish. There is also a suggestion of Hershey's chocolate (anyone who lived near PA, and went on the Hershey's chocolate tour, or who merely is familiar with the slightly cloying, carob like, processed taste of Hershey's chocolate knows what I'm talking about). Nevertheless, this is fun wine, drinking well now, and reasonably priced.

Vina Valoria Rioja Reserva 1968

The second time I have tasted this wine, and while it is still going, with muted cherry flavors and maybe some other stuff going on, I don't think the quality merits spending the dough you will inevitably spend on 40 year-old Rioja (which, relative to other 40 year old wines out there is not much, but still I'd look for other stuff).

Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Rioja Reserva 1998

The last time I had this wine (nearly a year ago) it was corked. So it was great to taste this wine in prime form. So pure on the nose - spicy red cherries, almond liqueur, orange rind. Very bright and focused on the palate, with lively red fruits, sicilian oranges and a vein of iron minerality on the mid-palate. Gorgeous Rioja of the old school. This wine in another 5+ years will be even more interesting.

Cillar d'Silos Ribera del Duero 2004

Sweeti-ish cherry fruit. Oaky.

Buil & Gine Joan Gine Gine Priorat 2001

If you're thinking what I'm thinking, then yep - that's a lot of Gine. This would definitely fall into the rare category of 'Priorats I've had in the past 2 years that I actually like.' Though the wine was slightly corked, you could still sense the freshness of red fruits, minerality and lightly floral uplift.

Niepoort Vertente Douro 2004

Dark fruited yet still fairly fresh. I'm guessing that they work very clean in the winery, use good quality fruit, and do not let this sit in new oak for too long...(upon further review the wine goes through malo and ages 12 months in French oak). Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Amarela, and other grapes. Competent and drinkable if not particularly exciting.

Quinta Vale do Maria Douro 2004

Modern, modern, modern. Loads of black currants, dark fruits, and NEW FRENCH OAK. After chilling out a day I did not like this much better.

JUNKYARD BAND COMMERCIAL AND VIDEO

JYB, if you didn't know, is responsible for the classic 'Sardines.' Here's some local DC gogo flavor, circe 1985.

Noir City Film Festival

Tonight I headed to the historic Castro Theater to take in a double feature on night 7 of the San Francisco Film Noir Festival. To get in the spirit and prepare for maximum noir enjoyment, I donned my blue full length cashmere winter coat and newly purchased grey fedora. Since my film knowledge is really quite pathetic, one of the things I hope to learn a lot more about this year is classic cinema, which of course would include film noir of the late 1940's and '50s.

The theme for tonight was films shot in San Francisco. D.O.A., the evening's first screening, is the tale of a man who travels to San Francisco to enjoy a big city vacation, only to discover that a letter of purchase that he notarized would cause him terrible misfortune, and ultimately lead to his death. The film's opening scene, where protagonist Mr. Bigelow goes to the police office to report his own murder, is one of the more unusual opening sequences I have seen in an older film. Classic. Molly X, the second film, is an obscure movie which tells the story of a woman who plans a botched robbery, and as a result has to do time in a women's correctional facility. She also has apparently murdered one of her partners in crime, though she is not tried for murder, and she has to struggle with this throughout the movie as well. Not as impressive, though it delivered some great snappy one liners, which are all the more appreciated when heard in a packed theater of folks who appreciate the corniness inherent in film noir.

After watching both movies, my date and I headed out the side entrance off the upper level section of the Castro Theater. The stairwell leads to a dark, narrow path, with piles of heavy cables strewn along the walls, probably from the filming of Gus Van Sant's new movie 'Milk.' We exited out the wrought iron gate and headed out into the misty San Francisco night. It was very noir.